Dry-Burn
How to glow, handle and clean your HandsMade Premium Coils
CLASSIC COILS OR SPACED?
With spaced coils it is easier/quicker to dry-burn the coil because the turns do not touch and you can oxidize the wire faster without getting shorts across the coil. This prevents damaging the coil too much
They cool of a little earlier too.
The taste is similar, in my opinion.
Only dry-burn destroys the coils, too much heat during dry-burning can damage the coil, melting the metal mix and causing issues like a porous coil, rusting, and uneven heating.
Classic coils might be more visually appealing to some people.
Ultimately, the choice depends on personal preference and priorities regarding maintenance ease and aesthetics.
PREPARATION
When you install the Coils in the atomizer, please stretch the turns slightly apart, it helps to achieve more even oxidation without getting too many hot spots.
The turns of the Coils installed should not touch.
If you touched the coils with your fingers before the dry-burn, wash the atomizer with installed coils using hot water and a bit of dish detergent or use an ultrasonic cleaner.
Once cleaned, avoid touching them again. The grease from your fingers can burn into the coils, preventing them from changing color properly when heated.
DRY-BURN
When glowing the coil, use very low power, so low that the coil doesn't light up beyond a dark red glow. This prevents excessive oxidation or damage to the wire.
For mechanical devices, pulse the power to avoid overheating the coil.
It's crucial to achieve gentle oxidation with as little heat as possible. If there isn't sufficient oxidation, tiny hot spots may develop, leading to a slightly sharp or scratchy taste in the liquid. Oxidation insulates the wire, preventing electrical shortcuts or hot spots from appearing.
READING COIL COLORS
When heating the coil correctly, it goes through a sequence of colors: gold, red, metallic blue, and finally light blue (indicating optimal heating). If the temperature gets even higher, it may turn gray and brown, indicating rust. It's best to resolve any hot spots when the coil is in the gold stage.
If no colors appear, it means your coil wasn't clean during the heating process.
GLOW CHART
This is the glow chart that shows the colors of the metal corresponding to temperature.
Making the coil glow really bright yellow is too much and it permanently damages the coil. You only need to heat it up to around 300 degrees to prevent hot-spots and get enough oxidation.
DRY-BURN MTL COIL
The process is similar to what was described earlier.
Begin with the lowest power setting (5 Watts), then pulse the mod and wait for the coil to start glowing to a dark red light, but not more.
Resolve any hot spots when the coil begins to show color. Carefully pulse further until it turns dark metallic blue and later light blue, indicating optimal heating.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT COTTON
There are various cotton options available, and their quality varies. Some are good, while others are average and are comparable to cotton found in supermarkets for cheap. The key factors are cleanliness and fiber length, with the longest fibers coming from Japan. Cleanliness is crucial for taste and health.
You can check cotton quality by pulling a small amount apart; it shouldn't break or be dusty. Longer fibers don't collapse as much in the coil when moistened.
Pull the cotton through the coil tightly without deforming it. More cores require tighter filling, leading to denser vapor and a later dirty coil. The cotton should expand when it comes out of the coil, and the pressure inside the coil should be high.
A dry hit typically happens when there's too little cotton in the coil, not the other way around. If there's too much cotton, the flavor can become muted, and you might experience a dry taste.
I don't recommend thinning out the ends, as it can absorb more liquid and pull it out of the coil incorrectly. The capillary effect pulls liquid to the higher amount, so thinned ends may not keep liquid in the coil.
As the liquid evaporates, the cotton narrows, needing to touch the coil at all times for consistent vapor, no dry hits, and a cleaner coil.
CLEANING THE COIL
Clean the coil by dry-burning at very low power. Pulse the power button for an extended period to burn off sugars from the coil. Keep the temperature low (only to dark red light) to avoid damaging the coil.
After dry-burning, rinse the atomizer under running water or use an Ultrasonic cleaner once the coils are cooled down. Never put glowing coils under water, as this can instantly destroy them.
Remember, the lower the temperature, the longer the coils will last.